fdlsys
R.I.P. March 2024
A must watch about wood joins
and glue strength
and glue strength
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Educational Woodworkers, assemble! (yeah, sort of double pun)
- Thread starter fdlsys
- Start date
Educational knowledge
naboo
Well-known member
Nice videos Mike. Which local glue do you us on yer miters?
fdlsys
R.I.P. March 2024
Alcolin for decades, but also tried genkem recently - the ordinary cold PVA and the superbly easily sandable water-resistant variety. Both are excellent and cheaper than Alcolin.
NB: no need for water resistant variety in our usual projects. Overspill doesn't wipe off nearly as easily as the ordinary so there's a potential for discolouration of finish after oiling/varnishing. I do almost everything with ordinary variety. Flows perfectly, gets deep into grain as it sets, that's what we are after. I keep things medium strength clamped for 16-24hr.
NB: no need for water resistant variety in our usual projects. Overspill doesn't wipe off nearly as easily as the ordinary so there's a potential for discolouration of finish after oiling/varnishing. I do almost everything with ordinary variety. Flows perfectly, gets deep into grain as it sets, that's what we are after. I keep things medium strength clamped for 16-24hr.
naboo
Well-known member
I use Genkem now. Stuff on the left where it matters and stuff on the right where it doesn't really.
Probably much of a muchness, but the d3 is rated great vs good for hardwood, laminates and composites. Seems like the right stuff for speaker boxes and hardwood miters.
BrianB
Active member
fdlsys
R.I.P. March 2024
Looks like .... Gorilla for wood? PU glue...
BrianB
Active member
Yes PU , super applicator on the bottle , real easy to work with, sticks to many substrates nicely too , other than wood , ( eg plastic pipe to wood - to fix a port to a speaker box ....)
tillerman
Member
What would you recommend for MDF? I'm planning to make two slim floorstanders early next year. I have made a set before using MDF and think I used Alcolin cold glue. Just wondering if there is something better?
BrianB
Active member
...your choice of PVA glue should be fine. Bigger concern is 90 deg corners, edges and MDF . I like miters best myself but they are not for everyone, and every project . Get a miter joint sorted , will save you many hours in time and worry later in the build.
naboo
Well-known member
I don't know if this sketch is sensible, but cut small struts like these, they reinforce the box very well.
pieter78
Active member
I rip 38x38 pine in half on the table saw, creating a triangle shape. Have a home made jig to hold the pine in place at that angle. That is then glued and stapled to the inside of MDF boxes. I will give a sample when I rebuild some vintage cabinets towards the end of Jan.
If you are wondering why I use a 45' jig instead of adjusting the blade at 45', well, pine brandering is not cut very nicely from the start. I can rip or plane it more evenly and then cut using my blade at 45' but that adds more unnecessary work to gussets that nobody will ever see.
BrianB
Active member
38 sq pine is not always 38x38 and sometimes need to be trimmed a bit. It is useful on the inside of speakers boxes in quite a few ways. the triangle idea works. In the example herewith I worked on a restomod older speaker some time ago , and the pine triangle pieces are used to break up the panels in smaller sections. It reinforces well. In my case I just halved the pine through the bandsaw @45 deg using a jig
