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Educational Capacitor brand and series to use in audio repair projects

Educational knowledge

mygoggie

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Jul 10, 2023
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Port Elizabeth
I am throwing a cat amongst the pigeons and fish now ...

In audio repair projects and then specifically the PS circuit, which capacitor manufacturer and then series by this manufacturer would you recommend based on actual repair experience?
 
If it’s capacitors in your power supply then the most important specification is ripple current rating - next up would be lifespan
 
You can search on Mantech for "low esr" for PSU; they have really decent Rubycon and Hitano caps.

Otherwise, an excellent way to find specific new series is to troll through any high-end BoM from a DIY group project on DIYAudio. However, the issue then becomes getting them locally. RS has some, but not all, series.
I've found these on RS
Rubycon XYF
Nichicon PW
Panasonic FM (Audio)

Here is my BOM for the Vanguard, which has a lot of excellent local components. There are both Mantech and RS columns
 
For repair, variety is important, yes? You can hardly know what comes your way next. So easy availability is a big issue for me.

My go to caps are also Hitano EXR from Communica and Electrocomp. At Communica the Hitano EXR caps are sometimes replaced by Jamicon WLR (and vice versa) and their online catalog doesn't always reflect this. But it's a similar thing. Good for SMPSU repair.

Also Rubycon YXF, and the various ZL series varieties like ZL, ZLH (long life) and ZLG whenever I see them reasonably priced at RS. One sometimes has a nice surprise there. Good for SMPSU repair.

RS also does the Panasonics, FR & FS (ooh..) Series. FC has a good reputation in the audio fraternity but somehow seemed to always cost more in spite of being the older and lesser device (spec-wise). Good for SMPSU repair.

The above are not high voltage types, so useful for the secondary side of SMPSUs.

Somehow me and Nichicon never got in phase. But RS carries many types. Not the "Muse" series though.

1uF and 2.2uF values tend to get replaced here with Polyester, if there is a way to fit it on the PCB at all.

For amps big the PSU caps (I seldom need these) are usually Hitano ECR or ELP (snap-in) or Jamicon LP (snap-in) standard 85 deg as those are more readily available. They are not exactly high ripple types but often enough equivalent to what is being replaced. Rubycon MXC (105 deg snap-in, try Mantech) is slightly better.

Kendeil high ripple types from Communica are costly. As are Epcos varieties of serious large can caps from Electrocomp. These are sometimes necessary for good old Crown PA ampslike Microtech and such where one PSU cap takes the entire hammering on its own and you know things are going to get blind drunk and loud
and something will probably get hurt. For my own much more modest experiments I like banks of 12 or 15 x 1000uF Hitano EXR or Rubycon YXF or Epcos B41857 for PSUs. Many smaller cans provide more ripple capability and better cooling for longer, at lower cost than big cans. Won't fit in most amps though. They go on home-brew PCBs with wide tracks.

Axials (often used in guitar amps, old scopes, old anything) can be difficult. Electrocomp might help you with BC/Vishay components (Philips) axials or Hitano ECA, a standard 85deg product, presently labelled "End of life" on Hitano's website. I have a bag of 47uF 25V 105 deg Hitano axials here in Electrocomp's packaging but they have no series number printed on them and Hitano is in denial as far as a datasheet goes. I do have great faith in those old blue Philips axial caps. Actually, any semiconductors Philips made.

I recently made a daughter board for a Peavey Classic 30 so I could use the more common radial type in stead of the hot-glued mess of axials on the original board. Fortunately there is space in the amp to mount it.

As for subjective sonics: That's something I try not to think about. Too many unknown variables going down that rabbit hole. Like with cables. It's like trying to determine if redheads are more fun than blondes. How could you say? Trying them all will take a lifetime and most likely just leave you very poor, totally exhausted and no better informed :) I just want the repair to last. 105 deg caps at least promise more reliability in the long run and lower ESR/High ripple capability does the same in PSU caps.

Non-polarised = PITA. Communica has some small values (to 47uF and 100V or so) but looking at ripple ratings for those is depressing. Very difficult to find high spec axials for speaker x-overs. I'm not even sure they still exist. Back-to-back polarised caps of twice the capacitance looks like the only solution if budget rules out plastic film replacements.
 
Many manufacturers have dedicated PSU series caps. I normally stick with Nichicon then Panasonic and then what we have available locally as next brands. In PSU, temp for me is always 105DegC if at all possible. With our ambient temps being not so cool locally, this help with lifespan. That is the other metric, some places will list the hours of design life.

Where it makes senses, low ESR is used. If I can get rid of Electrolytics, that gets swapped where possible. I have found in the past, when yanking out old used caps and measuring, I get a fair % of old caps with better ESR values than the brand new replacements. Hence no blanket recapping. Anyhoo, Troubleshoot first, replace failed components and then when working, evakluate the value of cap replacement. Don't forget those out of spec resistors and leaky transistors either....

Groetnis
 
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