Restoration Vintage 70s Yamaha restore, CR2040, YP-D10 and NS1000M

[Sarel.wagner]

It's finally Xmas
Unknown condition, 1979 vintage Yamaha YP-D10 and a CR-2040 Amp, sadly the speakers were stolen, was NS 1000M's....
I am now the second owner.of this system at 43 years young....


Groetnis

 

[Shonver]

Nice project! Hope you find a pair of those NS1000s.

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Man, yes I did, another resurrection project. This happened a while ago already, just preserving my posts from over there Thank you.

Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Hmmm, it must have lived a hard life outside at some point, for a while….


Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

It’s outside is cleaning up nicely this far. The lettering is intact. Lots of kitchen degreaser and IPA this far seems to do the best without harming anything. The Amp’s wooden cover is proving a challenge tho. The wood grain is open and there is an untold number of contaminants and dust and oily tacky residue embedded in the pores. iPA is doing the best there. Next will be a light teak oil and soft brush to try and clean that up.

On the Amp’s inside the bottom looks good with no corrosion visable. That being said, I need to blow out them dust bunnies and gunk out there first. The powersupply and power amp parts are caked in thick layers of dust, grass and who knows what. Seems to be some more of that sticky stuff as well. At least it appears everything is there, no parts missing and no stuck switchees and pots. Just much dirt.

The TT fared better it seems, the lid protected it from the worst. The VTA adjuster was stuck, but a soaking in light oil worked. It is still stiff but now is moving some. The wood was sealed to a gloss finish so it is cleaning up well. Functionally who knows? Will get the TT opened up sometime this week and inspect the gubbinses inside and clean up what needs cleaning. Then inspect for damages, will see.

Then time for the variac and dim bulb tester and fire up the TT and see if it functions? Lastly would be the Amp inspection and then on to trying to power that up. Will remove the fuses on the output side of the transformer and start checking voltages. I am a bit concerned for the state of the transformer. Will have to see about corrosion on the top side of the boards. There are lots of the open style adjuster resistors everywhere and they will need cleaning, and re-adjustment.

The big cleanup has begun. Now that I feel safe touching the stuff again, outsides are somewhat cleaner, I am discovering a few things. on the TT, they used Mogami interconnect cable and a Sure SE39ED MM cart. I guess after testing, I will hunt for a new stylus for this one.

The outsides were filthy, did I mention that, really filthy. Well the Amp had grass growing on the inside, even had to pull some from the transformer. Just hope the TR survived. Some of the stuff on top looks green

First vacuum, then compressed air I guess.... Then maybe IPA in some places, but not the tuner boards.


Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

TT outside I am kinda happy with, will have to get a stiffer brush to get in those crevices in the wood, stuff is still lodged in there. Looking better at least....

All the grubbiness gone, it's like goo gone

Cleaned up nicely me thinks. Now to invert and lift her skirt, see what's inside.


Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

And the TT spins yay!!
Still lots to sort here. Thank ya Sir, I am on AK but have not had a look yet at the Yammie stuff. Will def go have a squizz there.

On 33 1/3 takes 1/2 a rotation to speed, for 45 less than 1 rotation





Me happy

I can set the manual speed in PLL override mode, but this is just stellar for a 43 year old TT.

SpeedieGroetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Found some corrosion on the fuses inside the TT power supply, treated and removed the oxidation. It was the only ailment found.



Had a good look at that Shure cart, not worth while no more. Now considering a new cart for the Yammie.... Considering MC carts really, as the amp do have a MC input.


I do have an Ortofon 2M Blue as a spare that I will use in there to verify everything in the meantime.

Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

HB asked: Is that a Rifa cap I see there?

Not sure, did not look that closely, it survived 43 years already so left it alone for now.

HB: I doubt a Rifa would last that long, but I would definatly be wary.
Nice table that.


Soo then….
Had to go back and opened her up again, she started smelling like burnt plastic and polystyrene or some such. Its not a Rifa branded cap that, but it let loose anyhow. Oh well…. Now to replace it with another. At least it did not fail shorted

HB: Eish sorry man, I must have jinxed it.
Probably for the best though.

Hehehe nope np. It is a safety cap for sure, and it showed some cracks…. It is not connected in the usual way, between lines or to earth tho. It’s used as a spark suppressing cap for a relay, it appears, not conventional. Should have something in stock.

Ok scratch that, had an actual look at the schematic and its a X class cap, Kemet/Rifa type PME271. Got some Panasonics X type (Panasonic ECQUA Polypropylene Film Capacitor) that fit and is appropriate. Will get that replaced, its quite the stinker

Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

I am considering a Denon DL 103R or maybe another Hana like the EL, or even a MM Ortofon Black, I know Achim had one on special.
But still awaiting some input on what people say would be a fitting cart for this, and why?

Spoiler alert, In addition, decided on the Hasa SL in the end.
Still need buffing and scratch removal on the lid, but that is for later. It locks on PLL.


Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Back to normal she goes. De-smelled her a bit for she was a stinker after the cap let go. Now she smells just a tiny we bit. Cap replaced, all sewn up.

IPA to the rescue, everywhere. From killing some of the stink, to washing it from the PCB's and components, to cleaning the CR2040's boards. Still need to be cleaned with airgun as well.


Before:


Power amp pulled apart and washed. Wonders what a small brush and IPA can do....





Groetnis

 

[Crafty]

Back to normal she goes. De-smelled her a bit for she was a stinker after the cap let go. Now she smells just a tiny we bit. Cap replaced, all sewn up.

IPA to the rescue, everywhere. From killing some of the stink, to washing it from the PCB's and components, to cleaning the CR2040's boards. Still need to be cleaned with airgun as well.
View attachment 344

Before:
View attachment 348View attachment 349

Power amp pulled apart and washed. Wonders what a small brush and IPA can do....
View attachment 346View attachment 345View attachment 347




Groetnis

Ah yes... when those caps fail, they do so with vigor and enthusiasm. I was working on an old amp about 10 years ago, and the snub at the inlet decided to go. My daughter (4 at the time) was in tears. Sounds roughly like a 22LR gunshot indoors that goes off.

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Like new


Not to bad for being how it looked when I got that...


Will clean right up.


Yuck, will have to devise a means of cleaning them, other than by hand....




The Tuner and input section is untouched, fared much better. Some compressed air and a light brushing should do.



Still need more cleaning, but they are good for now.





Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Experimenting a little... The RCA corrosion is stubborn. Not wanting to use ammonia or acid based cleaners, nothing else were working. So resorted to Hulk and brute force methods.


Still by hand, might go with a drill... Scotchbrite inside of an 11mm socket and do the twist

The Wonderfull thing about power tools, it lets ya screw up 10x faster

Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Me thinks she is now as clean as it’s gonna get, good enough to start the next phase. Testing those caps, and replacing what needs done. Will focus on the PSU side first, tuner last. But even before that, get the Variac and dim bulb tester hooked up, pull them fuses and test everything up to transformer output.

Being dressed again


And ya knows what that means, she's alive
Also some thermals, before adjustments to DC offset and Bias were made. Will do a after pic later.

The meter is AC going into the Amp. The dial light switching on was a highlight! The rest of the lamps are dead. The AM and FM tuners are working, ws listening on headphones just to test.

HappyGroetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

She is dressed and playing tunes. Sadly at low volume the right channel distorts a little, either an earth issue, a pre drive or tone control board issue. All is discrete apart from the tone control board with a few IC's. It may also be a cap on the way out, likely this.



And now we can see the LR is properly balanced, DC offset and Bias. although due to the Right channel issue its DC offset bounces around.

Cold to warmed up on the right, and in balance. Current draw = heat.


Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

TaDaa....
Not final yet, but getting there



Versus


Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

After playing for most of the day today, I checked the DC offset again, both LR drifted higher, close to 50mV. The amp was nicely up to temp and the distortion at low level absent

So readjusted to spec, played for a while and re checked, still close to 2-3mV offset, both channels. Maybe it needed time to settle, will check again when cold. Will also tighten all screws to ensure the earths are ok....

Hmmm, on second thought, could also be oxidised Headphone jacks. Since that occurred when them cans was plugged in, I tested again, and yes, that happened. DeOxit them, will monitor and see.

Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

PSA announcement : Since this bit me once, many moons ago shortly after starting in Audio, here is a simple solution. Uninsulated banana plugs and sockets, just don't. I could only find uninsulated ones with braiding at the end for the Yammie, so Shrink Sleeving it is. Just once a bump into each other and smoke n tears....



Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Interesting Tone controls, and the usual Variable loudness. Variable frequency for all, plus midrange (Presence), nice!

Groetnis