Restoration Vintage 70s Yamaha restore, CR2040, YP-D10 and NS1000M

[Whoknows]

Man, yes I did, another resurrection project. This happened a while ago already, just preserving my posts from over there Thank you.

Groetnis

Any chance there's a thread coming for those?

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Yes

BerylliumGroetnis

 

[Whoknows]

Yes

BerylliumGroetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Anybody perhaps have these bad boys lying around, unloved and unused 2Sc1295 and 2Sc3264.... Do hit me up please


GroetnisInHoop

 

[Sarel.wagner]

And no, that is not the level for use on the TT you see here
Just a temp setup to test everything together for the first time.... She is schweet like honey Awaiting the lamps to replace those still, was supposed to be delivered today, but nada yet.



Awaiting the lamps to replace those still, was supposed to be delivered today, but nada yet.

Actually 14.5v 80mA bulbs with wire tails. managed to get 40mA versions from Mantech locally, also got backup Leds that I can make work. May have to add a extra resistor in parallel to drop that voltage down a but, will see. Th CR-2040 use a stupid series connection scheme for the meters and dial, and the scale use 4 of in series

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Them lamps: The originals, Stanley nogal


Them new ones, 14V 40mA from Mantech


New on the right, original still working on left.

Groetnis

 

[Family_Dog]

Utterly ridiculous that many AVR manufacturers used such non-standard lamps. time I have come across 14v bulbs, I am aware of 6v, 8v & 12v types.


-F_D

 

[Whoknows]

Them lamps: The originals, Stanley nogal
View attachment 1869

Them new ones, 14V 40mA from Mantech
View attachment 1868

New on the right, original still working on left.
View attachment 1870
Groetnis

New lights look much nicer.

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Issue with specifically this Amp (and other vintage Yamaha's) is the bulbs are fed pre protection relay on the same circuit, and drains the voltage down quickly so the relay can un-latch and prevent speaker pops and Dc on the output. With Leds in there this seems to not happen and the speakers and relay may be damaged over time. I may experiment and see.... or rather maybe not.

Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

She started humming a bit. Bunch of capacitors on order, a new protection relay, new multi turn trimmer pots for the power amp bias and offset. Me suspecting the PS for the hum, but time to recap anyhow. Will start with the PS, then tone control board, also the pre-drive board. The rest will follow later. Close to 100 caps already

Yup indeed, hum is there no matter input selected, does not vary with volume. I did not pull them, but tested in circuit and they tested good, low ESR, on spec for uF and low leakage, but yanking em anyhoo, plus all the others in the PS. Most will be Panasonic or Nichicon, PW series for the PSU and whatever I could get stock of for the rest, mostly Nichicon and mostly some basic or better Audio Series. No PS 22000uF 71V caps that will fit locally, so importing, currently being shipped, Cornell-Dubilier brand at 80V. Almost nobody locally have more than 20-25% of the caps I need for this on hand, well not in any reputable brand anyhoo with 105C and low ESR, low leakage and low noise. All seems to bring em in from the Uk or EU in about 2 weeks. Also, Omron SA do not bring in the Protection relay (compatible) replacement, so another import there.

Now the loooong wait and hoping on logistics, but nothing via Postoffice yay...

RecappingGroetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Man, am I happy with the YP-D10 TT, a beast of note. Put a Sumiko Pearl MM on there and it is very nice indeed, but we can do way better than that with a MC or MI. When the Amp is done, the cabinet to host this is modified to make it wide enough, I will install another cartridge in there. But still have not made up my mind as to why that will b.

First bits started arriving for the soon to be tackled recap marathon on the Cr-2040.... and those big un's are inbound, currently via Bahrein to Jhb. Also the rest is shipping from the UK and EU. Will order the rest of em later, for now focussing on the PS, Pre-Drive for the Power amps and then the tone board.

Groetnisinwaiting

 

[Sarel.wagner]

These bad boys arrived....



CappedGroetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Some o em have min order quantities, where I need 1 or 2, moq = 5 etc. There may be like 5 or 8 left over out of this batch.

More showed up, multi turn trimpots for the power amp stage DC offset and Bias. The current trimmers are ok, if very difficult to adjust since it's only single turn trimmers. This upgrade will be welcome since after recapping, most likely will have to adjust DC offset and Bias anyhoo.



Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Started the process.... on the face of it the 22 000uF's look fine, but replaced anyhow. Will go test em properly later. Also replaced a number of other caps on the PS board already..



GecapteGroetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

NS1000M
Eventually a pair became available, a sorry state they are. Quickly ripped one apart to see in what state the cabinet itself was in, it appears most damage for the R speaker is on the outside and cosmetic in nature, maybe salvageable without replacing the veneer, we shall see.

Pictures as advertised and received....



Now this is not them, but the tweeter donor, also Yamaha NS-5 and them offending tweeters

The tweeters I assume was blown up and are missing, replace by another set of Yamaha tweeters JA-0506 it looks like. These were glued in place, what a horrible job. The Mid drivers protective grills are missing with the trim rings keeping them in place. So the hunt is on....

A sorry state of affairs indeed. Need replacement Tweeters and at least grills for them mids, or replacement mids as well....

PricelessGroetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Did I listen to em, nope did not listen. Want to get the proper tweeters in there first, so yes this may be a long or very long wait. Anyhoo need to work on restoring those cabinets first, then see what to do about the naked mids....

Resurrection project, or if you like restoration, this will be. The look with those misfit tweeters is not good, so they got to go. I am also not looking to pimp them up to Troels spec as they end up not being what they are but Troels speakers. I will likely have to replace some capacitors in the network but if they test to spec, will leave them alone and listen first.


At some point I will have to start on them cabinets. Do not yet know what the second cabinet looks like. Busy preparing the ebonising stain. Then the sandin begins and we will have to see about the damage in the veneer. I am currently busy with that Bush radio and the veneer repairs for that as well. It will be good practise for this project.

Boy oh boy....

Groetnis

 

[naboo]

Sterkte. I assume the logo is directly on the veneer and not a decal. Are you just going to work around it is make a stencil and respray?

 

[Sarel.wagner]

It's one of those silver metallic stickers, don't yet know what to do. Currently working around that.

Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

Ghostinthemachine: Sarel... Please be careful with those midrange domes. They are Beryllium and it is highly carcinogenic.
@ ghostinthemachine Thank you, yes and well aware of the issues there. Will be gloved and masked when working with them, some cleaning will be required.

The cabinets themselves appear to be solid, no structural issues I can see at this early point. The L speaker top veneer is a gonner, that will have to be repaired. Used good ol thinners to remove most of the red paint.



Groetnis

 

[Sarel.wagner]

This is low going, the sanding is a bear. The red paint removes quite easy in comparison to whatever the black stuff is. It's kind of got a texture but not soft. it was applied in a thick coat. I tried various things to remove it, most successful being sanding. I use mostly Mirka abrasives, its mesh style so very open with a sander and a vacuum to suck up the dust. That does not even help, the disks load up with a sticky like black stuff that clogs it.

I tried various things, from an industrial heat gun to thinners, IPA, acetone, turpentine and even wd40, nada. Do not want to risk paint stripper tho, afraid the chemicals will penetrate the wood or destroy the glue bond as well. So sanding it is....

SkurweGroetnus